In 1934, a belt buckle became a bracelet. The result, the Ludo bracelet, is still one of the defining pieces of Van Cleef & Arpels, and the maison has now released new high-jewellery versions of it.
The French house moved to Place Vendôme in 1906, a decade after it was founded. The square quickly filled with jewellery workshops and haute couture dressmaking salons. The Ludo grew out of that couture world.
Gold this bright rarely stays in the jewellery box, and the same metallic glow runs through runway fabrics. Where lamé fits into fashion and costume design traces how that shine moves from couture to costume.
A belt turned into a ludo bracelet
The Ludo bracelet borrows its structure from a belt. A wide, strap-like band wraps the wrist, fastened by a buckle-shaped clasp and loops. The curve of the band gives the piece a sensual quality, but the belt is its main idea.
The ludo bracelet is nicknamed Louis, after the youngest of the Arpels brothers. Since 1934 it has appeared in many precious versions, including one that hides a watch dial.
Three gold colours, three gemstones
The new high jewellery pieces use a flexible briquette mesh cast in yellow, white or rose gold. Each metal is paired with one stone: sapphires on yellow gold, emeralds on white gold and rubies on rose gold. Wallpaper* describes this as a trio.
Buro 247 reports four new versions instead, with rubies, sapphires or diamonds set in grain settings. Its account also highlights the hexagon motifs and the graphic lines that frame each piece. The two reports differ on the count, so the exact lineup should be checked with the maison.
The house’s Patrimonial Collection offers a historical counterpart. One 1937 variation has a yellow gold brick-pattern mesh and a rectangular buckle set with calibrated rubies. Six gold ribbons spread from the buckle like a bow, with platinum ends pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
Fine jewellery and fine watchmaking share a devotion to rare, meticulous craft. Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5978P-010 Perpetual Calendar Debut offers a closer look at another luxury maison’s latest limited release.
That version can also be transformed. Both sides of the bow detach to become clips, a feature the collection links to the taste for convertible jewellery in the 1930s. The collection notes that only one other example of this transformable model is known, also from 1937.
The collection dates its reference model to 1935 and calls the 1937 bracelet a revised version of it. That timeline differs from the 1934 date given for the Ludo’s first appearance, which is why the origin is best described as a short sequence of early variations rather than a single year.
Nearly a century after the first belt-shaped design, the Ludo still works because its idea is simple. A buckle holds the band in place, and the stones and gold colours change with each generation of makers.
H/T wallpaper.com
Frequently asked questions
What is the Ludo bracelet based on in its design?
The Ludo bracelet borrows its structure from a belt, with a wide, strap-like band that wraps the wrist. It is fastened by a buckle-shaped clasp and loops.
What gold colours and gemstones are used in the new Ludo bracelets?
The new high jewellery Ludo bracelets are cast in yellow, white or rose gold, with each metal paired with one stone. Sapphires are set on yellow gold, emeralds on white gold, and rubies on rose gold. Wallpaper* describes this as three versions, while Buro 247 reports four, so the exact lineup should be checked with the maison.
Why is the Ludo bracelet nicknamed Louis?
The Ludo bracelet is nicknamed Louis after the youngest of the Arpels brothers. It has appeared in many precious versions since 1934.
When did Van Cleef & Arpels move to Place Vendôme?
Van Cleef & Arpels moved to Place Vendôme in 1906, a decade after the house was founded. The square quickly filled with jewellery workshops and haute couture dressmaking salons.
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