In 1988, Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens, co-founder of the Maison, painted their entire studio white. The walls, the furniture and the mannequins all went under the brush. Part of the furniture was also draped in white cotton. The studio’s look is the earliest root of this whitewash approach.
The decision was largely financial. The pair had bought a mix of vintage pieces at markets and second-hand shops, and white paint gave them a single look. They also liked how the objects aged, as paint scuffed and peeled to reveal what each piece had once been.
Giving worn materials a second life echoes the aged, scuffed pieces that first inspired this approach, and Upcycled truck tarpaulins become luxe bags shows how reclaimed material can feel premium.
From studio habit to the maison margiela whitewash technique
That habit became ‘bianchetto’, or whitewashing. Pieces from the house’s collections, made using this technique, are hand-painted white and designed to crack and fade over time, showing signs of use. It sits among Margiela’s foundational codes, alongside anonymity, deconstruction and the Tabi shoe.
The maison margiela whitewash technique first appeared in 1989, on an early version of the Tabi boot. That boot takes its form from traditional Japanese split-toe tabi footwear.
Paint it white: Rimowa x Maison Margiela
Now bianchetto anchors a new collaboration between Maison Margiela, currently led by Belgian designer Glenn Martens, and the German luggage maker Rimowa. The Classic Cabin suitcase, with its ridged aluminium shell, is daubed with white paint. A version of the 5AC XL bag carries the same treatment.
The bag’s leather has been recrafted with grooves that echo the ridges on Rimowa cases. Those ridges were originally inspired by airplane fuselages.
The two brands describe the project as a study of the ‘lived in’. Rimowa builds its cases to technical perfection, yet it has long accepted the dents and scuffs that travel leaves behind. It treats those marks as mementos, and it has encouraged owners to decorate their cases with stickers and tags.
Maison Margiela uses bianchetto for the same reason, and its bianchetto technique reveals the logic behind it. Its garments often reveal torn-away layers that expose the construction and linings beneath.
Reworking a familiar classic with fresh colour and form is another fashion take on a beloved icon, and Willy Chavarria’s bold reinvention of Adidas tracksuits is worth a look for its playful approach.
The new Classic Cabin also has a white interior. Visible stitching and interlocked edges make the case look as if it has been turned inside out. Its logo plaque carries four white stitches, a nod to Margiela’s branding, which uses stitching in place of logos or monograms.
The 5AC XL is built to look as though its lining is being pulled out through the opening. Removable leather loops let the bag slide over the Classic Cabin’s telescopic handle.
A campaign film, conceived by Dexter Lander, places the luggage set in a Haussmannian apartment in Paris, Margiela’s home city. White paint sprinkles over the cases and the rooms. When it settles, it leaves the silhouettes of the bag and suitcase on the walls.
The collection is available from 19 November 2026 at selected Rimowa and Maison Margiela stores. Its message is clear: through the house’s signature whitewashing, wear is the finished look, not a flaw to hide.
H/T wallpaper.com
Frequently asked questions
What is Maison Margiela’s bianchetto technique?
Bianchetto, or whitewashing, is Maison Margiela’s technique of hand-painting pieces white. The pieces are designed to crack and fade over time, showing signs of use.
Why did Martin Margiela paint his studio white in 1988?
The decision was largely financial, since the pair had bought a mix of vintage pieces that white paint unified into a single look. They also liked how the painted objects aged, as paint scuffed and peeled to reveal what each piece had once been.
When did Maison Margiela’s whitewash technique first appear on a product?
The whitewash technique first appeared in 1989 on an early version of the Tabi boot. The Tabi boot takes its form from traditional Japanese split-toe tabi footwear.
When will the Rimowa and Maison Margiela collection be available?
The collection is available from 19 November 2026 at selected Rimowa and Maison Margiela stores.
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