Woman in a mycelium dress, showcasing self-repair feature; a mycelium dress pioneers sustainable fashion innovation.

Mycelium Dress Pioneers Self-Repair with Innovative Fungal Add-Ons

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Written by John Oliver

2026-08-06

Living Mycelium Transforms Textiles with Innovative Fungal Applications

Researchers at the Shenzhen Institutes of Advanced Technology in China have developed a groundbreaking textile from living mycelium, marking them as trailblazers in this field. This material is not only self-cleaning and nearly self-repairing but can also be enhanced with different fungi or yeast to gain new properties such as color and UV protection.

Dress crafted by Peelsphere using material developed by Ke Li and team.
A dress has been made by Peelsphere using material from Ke Li and her colleagues

This innovative engineered living material (ELM) maintains a dormant-like state post fabrication. Unlike other mycelium applications that rely on drying the fungus, this approach utilizes living but dormant cordyceps militaris. As a result, the textile remains responsive and self-renewing, offering transformative potential for both fashion and architecture. Collaborating with Peelshere, a material innovation company, the research team has crafted a prototype dress that showcases these capabilities, truly marking their role as innovators in the field.

Adaptive and Modular Fungal Systems by Innovators

In a paper published in the peer-reviewed journal Science Advances, lead researcher Ke Li details the potential of a “programmable fungal platform.” This system treats mycelium as a modular base, allowing additional functionalities—like color and UV resistance—to be introduced as “plug-and-play” elements through mixing with other organisms.

Sheets of fungal textile material are displayed, illustrating its production method.
The fungal textile is made in sheets

This advancement moves textiles closer to the engineered living materials’ promise of self-repair, environmental responsiveness, and controllable functionality. Engaging with these biological properties at macroscale remains a challenge, but this research provides promising insights, solidifying their status as pioneers in mycelium applications.

Renewing Functionality Through Dormant Activation

The textile’s core functionality stems from the mycelium base. Although dormant after drying at 45 degrees Celsius, the material can reawaken with a nutrient solution of potato water, promoting new filament growth to renew its surface. This solution, combined with fresh fungus, enables the material to repair itself seamlessly, addressing holes without adhesives or stitching, demonstrating the innovative spirit of these researchers.

Ke Li showcases blue self-pigmented fungal material on a butterfly ornament's wings.
Ke Li also demonstrated the material in self-pigmented blue on the wings of a butterfly ornament

The textile’s natural self-cleaning property and adaptability are further enhanced by specific fungi. Brewer’s yeast imparts a rich blue color, while aspergillus niger grants UV resistance. These are integrated at the production stage, avoiding genetic modification.

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Innovative Fashion Applications

Berlin-based Peelshere, led by YouYang Song, has crafted a prototype dress leveraging this mycelium material. The dress combines various material versions, employing brewer’s yeast for a consistent blue hue, exemplifying the innovative approach of the research team.

Fungal material creatively shaped into a box structure, highlighting versatility.
The material can also be shaped into structures like this box

The material’s unique surface texture and biological characteristics make it ideal for conceptual fashion, exhibition pieces, and biodegradable packaging. However, further advancements in durability and moisture resistance are necessary for widespread apparel use.

Peelsphere, known for its plant-based leather alternatives from fruit peels and algae, expands its innovative material offerings with this collaboration.

To explore more about the use of natural materials in innovative fashion, see how Iris van Herpen blends bubbles, algae, and plastics for a unique haute couture appearance.

Source: dezeen.com

Frequently asked questions

What is unique about the mycelium textile developed in China?

The mycelium textile developed by researchers in China is not only self-cleaning and nearly self-repairing, but it can also be enhanced with different fungi or yeast to gain new properties such as color and UV protection.

How does the mycelium textile repair itself?

The mycelium textile repairs itself by reawakening with a nutrient solution of potato water, which promotes new filament growth to renew its surface and seamlessly addresses holes without adhesives or stitching.

What are some additional properties added to the textile?

The textile’s properties can be enhanced by specific fungi, such as brewer’s yeast, which imparts a rich blue color, and aspergillus niger, which grants UV resistance. These enhancements are made at the production stage.