Human hair is an unlikely hero in the world of design materials. This everyday element, often swept away and forgotten, has become the focus of London-based designer Sanne Visser‘s groundbreaking exploration into sustainable design. Through a project that extends far beyond hair itself, Visser seeks to redefine how materials are perceived and used, intertwining ecological, social, and economic values.
A New Chapter Begins with The Ropery
On July 15th, at East London’s Whitechapel Gallery, “The Ropery” exhibition unveils as part of the Backyard Biennial: East. This participatory installation, inspired by East London’s rich ropemaking history, allows visitors to engage hands-on with human hair, reclaimed wood, and locally sourced materials. It’s a continuation of Visser’s “HairCycle”, a community-led initiative started in Newham in 2024. Here, salons and barbers collaborate to repurpose discarded hair into viable materials like yarns, ropes, and textiles.
Visser’s journey began during her master’s research at Central Saint Martins. She recognized hair as a readily available, biodegradable, and strong material. Yet, she argues it’s not the technical challenges but the social, cultural, and political layers that shape how such materials can be utilized. Her PhD in systemic design delves deeper into these complexities, supported by projects like “HairCycle”, initially funded by AHRC in 2024.
The Ecosystem Behind HairCycle
“We are increasingly detached from the materials we use,” Sanne Visser says. This detachment is central to her work, pushing beyond mere material transformation to weaving a network of connections that include hairdressers, marine biologists, chemists, and policymakers. The project redefines value, returning ecological and economic benefits to the communities where these materials originate.
Collaboration forms the heart of HairCycle. Hairdressers, who regularly encounter hair waste, have become vital contributors in this systemic shift. For Visser, the aim is to ensure that ecological and economic benefits support those directly involved. “The material couldn’t be more human,” she asserts, emphasizing community over extraction.
Craft and Connection
Rope-making, a time-honored craft that transforms waste into strength, serves as both a tool and symbolic connection. By involving the public in the making process, HairCycle fosters understanding of material origins and labor. This was clear when Visser contributed to “When Apricots Blossom”, Uzbekistan’s debut at Milan Design Week 2026, blending local materials with human hair to reveal rich histories and craft techniques.
Her work alongside local artisans produced “Shan’araq”, a hand-twisted rope marrying Karakalpak wool, Fergana cotton, and Tashkent hair. This collaborative piece highlights the role of place, tradition, and climate in shaping materials.
The Future of Craft at Whitechapel
Opening July 15th, 2026, “The Ropery” revisits East London’s rope-making past, inviting visitors to explore labor histories and material culture. It’s an invitation to rethink craft’s future beyond nostalgia. Visser envisions craft integrated into manufacturing, education, and community, addressing its systemic role.
Visser’s initiative showcases human connection through craftsmanship. Similarly, alternative art forms highlight the endless possibilities of creative expression in everyday life.
Though seemingly about hair, Visser’s initiatives drive home a deeper message. “It is not about hair in many ways,” she concludes. “It is about rethinking materials, our relations to them, and their societal impact.”
As emphasized by Visser, the journey of “HairCycle” and her wider work inspires a reevaluation of how we produce, use, and value materials worldwide.
Exploring sustainable alternatives is key to Visser’s vision. Casusgrill’s sustainable instant grill made from lava rock offers another innovative way to rethink everyday materials.
Sources & Links
Source: designboom.com
Frequently asked questions
What is The Ropery exhibition about?
The Ropery exhibition is a participatory installation at East London’s Whitechapel Gallery as part of the Backyard Biennial: East. It is inspired by East London’s ropemaking history and allows visitors to engage with human hair, reclaimed wood, and locally sourced materials to explore sustainable design.
What does the HairCycle initiative aim to achieve?
The HairCycle initiative aims to repurpose discarded hair into materials like yarns, ropes, and textiles. It focuses on redefining value by ensuring ecological and economic benefits for the communities involved and aims to foster understanding of material origins and labor through public participation.
How did Sanne Visser’s journey with sustainable materials begin?
Sanne Visser’s journey with sustainable materials began during her master’s research at Central Saint Martins. She identified hair as a readily available, biodegradable, and strong material, leading her to explore its potential through her subsequent projects.