The Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear collection presented by Acne Studios in Paris was more than just a showcase of new fashion designs; it was a holistic experience that captivated all senses. The set design by Austrian artist Lukas Gschwandtner and the collection’s creative direction by Jonny Johansson reflected intricate conceptual ideas, aiming to evoke specific emotions and thoughts. The show integrated multiple elements – from a life-sized broken disco ball to unique furnishings and electrifying music. This article aims to provide a comprehensive analysis of this show, examining its set design, fashion philosophy, and the creative forces behind it.
The Set Design: An Ambiance that Conjures A Sense of Liberation
Atmosphere and Structural Components
The show took place at L’Observatoire de Paris, where the stage was adorned with a blend of neutral and soft tones. A massive disco ball, crafted with cement and plaster hues, was intentionally shattered and positioned at one corner of the stage. This seemingly destroyed disco ball wasn’t just a decorative element; it acted as a mirror, reflecting its surroundings through its fractured pieces.
The flooring and seating areas were covered in a beige-hued fabric that complemented the disco ball’s tones. The unique mix of furnishings provided an inviting setting for the audience. The overall atmosphere was further enriched by the incorporation of a carpeted floor and cushioned benches, augmented by a series of elongated pillows to enhance the viewers’ comfort.
Overhead, panels emanated rays of white light that cast beams across the entire venue, making them appear strikingly vivid against a contrasting black backdrop. The lighting design thus played a significant role in enhancing the overall visual experience of the show.
Conceptual Interpretations: Freedom and Industrial Aesthetic
A Symbolic Disco Ball
The disrupted disco ball at the stage’s corner was symbolic, alluding to the concept of freedom and liberation usually experienced in dance settings. It also signified the idea of losing oneself in the moment, which complemented the overall ethos of after-hours freedom that Acne Studios aimed to invoke.
Furnishings and Their Role
The furnishings offered a break from the electrifying atmosphere, providing a momentary space for introspection. Their soft beige tones acted as a visual respite, allowing the audience to relax and reflect amidst the intense fashion presentation.
Fashion Philosophy: Elevated Industrial Clothing
Aim and Collection Highlights
Acne Studios’ SS24 collection aimed to explore the essence of speed and spontaneity. The garments were designed to illustrate an elevated form of industrial fashion, emphasizing the significance of how various clothing artifacts are worn. A special focus was placed on paying tribute to denim, highlighting its versatile role in the fashion industry.
The models made their appearances from behind the fragmented disco ball, wearing garments in strong, attention-grabbing colors like red, blue, and green. These outfits featured floor-length silhouettes, presenting a sharp contrast to the conventional short summer wears.
Creative Direction and Music
Jonny Johansson: The Creative Mind
Jonny Johansson, the creative director of Acne Studios, shared his thoughts on the collection’s industrial mood. According to Johansson, his passion for denim and its various manipulations was a significant influence. He also mentioned that the collection was inspired by the aesthetics of a construction site, a work in progress that represents beauty in its raw form.
Auditory Experience: Giant Swan
The fashion show was sonically enhanced by the electronic duo Giant Swan, whose soundscapes resonated well with Lukas Gschwandtner‘s broken disco ball art installation. The music thus completed the circle, encapsulating the entire experience into a harmonious ensemble.
|Show Set Design||Acne Studios|
|Creative Director||Jonny Johansson|
The Acne Studios SS24 Womenswear show was a multi-dimensional experience, weaving together fashion, art, and sound. From the meticulous set design by Lukas Gschwandtner to the conceptual depth provided by Jonny Johansson’s creative direction, every element was carefully curated to offer an engaging and thought-provoking experience. The broken disco ball and the unique furnishings invoked a sense of freedom and reflection, while the fashion collection itself explored the boundaries of industrial aesthetics and the versatility of denim. Overall, the show was not just a display of fashion but an articulation of complex ideas and emotions.